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ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Warning: This manual has been put together by an amateur, not a trainer. Please use this manual cautiously. Please contact Karl on cyberkarl3@gmx.net if you find any mistakes. Handy stuff to take with: hard-hats, cellphone, climbing shoes, suncream, harness, student card, WildCard, water, chalkbag, caribiner, bogroll, guitar, map/book, slings etc. 

Top-rope sports-climbs: 

  1. First warm up your muscles to prevent them from tearing. Here are some great links for warming up: Geckogrips or climbing.co.za
  2. Both belayer and climber should wear hard hats(/helmets).
  3. If you can safely reach the anchor from the top, pull the rope through both loop-type anchors or through the single mallion of a modern anchor.
    or through 2 quickdraws around chain-anchor> (quickdraws must face in opposite directions = Spine-to-gate, gate-to-spine). 
    Or put rope around U-bolt if there is a U-bolt on the chain.
  4. Follow- through- figure- of- 8 with emergency knot should be used around correct part(s) of harness. 
  5. Show belayer how to belay correctly and he/she must be alert at all times. Belayer must stand, he/she may not sit down.
  6. Belayer should have the gate of the caribiner facing away from the rock wall.  
  7. The climber may not put his finger through a bolt. One shouldn't hang onto or stand on bolts anyway, it's cheating.
  8. Explain Emergency Falling Procedure (see below).
  9. (Climber should preferably not rest in the rope.)
  10. Belayer should always watch the climber (except when using the certain equioment) and keep in good communication with each other.

Lead-Climb sports-climbs:  

This may look complicated, but it's rather obvious. The more you climb, the more you would want to start lead-climbing.
Be warned though that incorrect clipping of quickdraws can result in serious consequences...

  1. Check rope and harness and equipment for wear.
  2. Check Number of quickdraws required for climb, take with chalk bag and a spare draw and slings
  3. Know the skill level of your partner
  4. The climber shouldn't be more than 25kgs heavier than the belayer.
  5. Tie rope onto your harness: Figure-o-8-follow-through with security-knot.
  6. Tie a knot at the other end of the rope in case the rope is unknowingly/accidentally too short for the climb.
  7. Attach to belayer  ("on-belay").
  8. Check harnesses -double-back  and check each other: Rope through caribiner of belayer and caribiner locked.
  9. "Climb when ready./Belayer ready". "Climbing"
  10. When to clip: When you can reach the bolt AND you are in good position where u can hold yourself with one hand.    (if not, downclimb.)
  11. How to clip: >> See picture!
  12. Quick-draws:
    The slightly bent gate of the quickdraw is for the rope. Have the spine of it point towards the direction of the climb.
    Make sure that the quickdraw doesn't get opened by the rock pushing against the gate. Turn the gate away from the rock.
  13. Take the rope from your harness (without untying) & clip into quickdraw.
  14. Shout "Clipped!"
  15. Climb on.
  16. If you can reach the anchor safely, insert a quickdraw and clip the rope into it.
  17. Climb & shout "Tight-rope!".
  18. Use 2 draws or slings or caribiners between your harness and the anchor onto safety and double-check.
  19. Shout "On safety!" and "Off belay!".
  20. Use a clove-hitch knot and a caribiner to fasten the slack rope to your harness. (can be onto a gear-loop)
  21. Untie the end of the rope from your harness.
  22. Put 2 draws around chain (anchor) (quickdraws must face in opposite directions). Or put rope around U-bolt if there is a U-bolt on the chain.
  23. New anchors: Put rope through both new loop-type anchors or through single mallion on modern anchor.
  24. Tie yourself in again using Follow through figure of 8 with emergency knot.
  25. Double-check.
  26. Untie the rope from your gear-loop.
  27. Shout "On- belay" and "tight-rope!"
  28. Belayer to shout back when "ready and on belay!".
  29. Remove safety draws.
  30. Descend.
  31. Cleaning: Removal of lower quickdraws: Personal preference: First unclip from the rope then the bolt. 

What to do when falling:  Falling shouldn't be allowed for any climb (wear on all equipment), but this can happen and is allowed for training once in a while. If a lead climber or top-rope climber decides that he/she cannot hold on or is about to slip off, (s)he must shout "FALLING!", so that the belayer can lock down. The belayer should not try to take up slack at this dangerous moment, (s)he must lock-down

Falling procedure: Climber should push himself off the wall/rock so that he/she falls down with rope acting like a pendulum. (or he/she will get seriously scratched along the surface during the fall) 

Multi-Pitching Sports-Climb:

  1. Both belayer and climber must wear hard-hats.
  2. Tie both ends of the rope to belayer and climber. Keep it like this until you reach the top. 
  3. I don't know from here ... please email Karl on: cyberkarl3@gmx.net.

If you have the procedure for multi-pitching or trad-climbing feel free to mail me at: cyberkarl3@gmx.net