ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Warning:
This manual has been put together by an amateur, not a trainer. Please use this
manual cautiously. Please contact Karl on cyberkarl@gmx.net
if you find any mistakes. Handy stuff to take with: hard-hats, cellphone, climbing shoes, suncream,
harness, student card, WildCard, water, chalkbag, caribiner, bogroll, guitar,
map/book, slings etc.
Top-rope sports-climbs:
- First warm up your muscles to prevent them from tearing. Here are
some great links for warming up: Geckogrips
or climbing.co.za
- Both belayer and climber should wear hard hats(/helmets).
- If you can safely reach the anchor from the top, pull the rope through both
loop-type anchors or
through the single mallion of a modern anchor.
or through 2 quickdraws around chain-anchor> (quickdraws must face in opposite
directions = Spine-to-gate, gate-to-spine).
Or put rope around U-bolt if there
is a U-bolt on the chain.
-
Follow- through- figure- of- 8 with emergency knot
should be used
around correct part(s) of harness.
-
Show belayer how to belay correctly and he/she must be alert at all times. Belayer must
stand, he/she may not sit down.

-
Belayer should have the gate of the caribiner facing
away from the rock wall.
- The climber may not put his finger through a bolt. One shouldn't hang onto
or stand on bolts anyway, it's cheating.
-
Explain Emergency Falling
Procedure (see below).
-
(Climber should preferably not rest in the rope.)
-
Belayer should always watch the climber (except when using the certain
equioment) and keep in good
communication with each other.
Lead-Climb sports-climbs:
This may look complicated, but it's rather obvious. The more you climb, the
more you would want to start lead-climbing.
Be warned though that incorrect clipping of quickdraws can result in serious
consequences...
- Check rope and harness and equipment for wear.
- Check Number of quickdraws required for climb, take with chalk bag and a
spare draw and slings
- Know the skill level of your partner
- The climber shouldn't be more than 25kgs heavier
than the belayer.
- Tie rope onto your harness:
Figure-o-8-follow-through with security-knot.
-
Tie a knot at the other end of the
rope in case the rope is unknowingly/accidentally too short for the climb.
- Attach to belayer ("on-belay").
-
Check harnesses -double-back
and check each other: Rope through caribiner of belayer and caribiner
locked.
- "Climb when ready./Belayer ready". "Climbing"
- When to clip: When you can reach the bolt AND you are in good position where
u can hold yourself with one hand. (if not, downclimb.)
- How to clip: >> See picture!

-
Quick-draws:
The slightly bent gate of the quickdraw is for the rope. Have
the spine of it point towards the direction of the climb.
Make sure that the quickdraw doesn't get opened by the rock
pushing against the gate. Turn the gate away from the rock.
- Take the rope from your harness (without untying) &
clip into quickdraw.
- Shout "Clipped!"
- Climb on.
- If you can reach the anchor safely, insert a quickdraw
and clip the rope into it.
- Climb & shout "Tight-rope!".
- Use 2 draws or slings or caribiners between your
harness and the anchor onto safety and double-check.

- Shout "On safety!" and "Off
belay!".
- Use a clove-hitch knot and a caribiner to fasten the
slack rope to your harness. (can be onto a gear-loop)
- Untie the end of the rope from your harness.
- Put 2 draws around chain (anchor) (quickdraws must face in
opposite directions). Or put rope around U-bolt if there is a U-bolt on the
chain.
- New anchors: Put rope through both new loop-type anchors
or through single mallion on modern anchor.
- Tie yourself in again using Follow through figure
of 8 with emergency knot.

- Double-check.
- Untie the rope from your gear-loop.
- Shout "On- belay" and "tight-rope!"
- Belayer to shout back when "ready and on
belay!".
- Remove safety draws.
- Descend.
- Cleaning: Removal of lower quickdraws: Personal
preference: First unclip from the rope then the bolt.
What
to do when falling: Falling shouldn't be allowed
for any climb (wear on all equipment), but this can happen and is allowed for
training once in a while. If a lead climber or top-rope climber decides that he/she
cannot hold on or is about to slip off, (s)he must shout "FALLING!", so
that the belayer can lock down. The belayer should not try to take up slack
at this dangerous moment, (s)he must lock-down.
Falling
procedure:
Climber should push himself off the wall/rock so that he/she
falls down with rope acting like a pendulum. (or he/she will get seriously
scratched along the surface during the fall)
Multi-Pitching Sports-Climb:
- Both belayer and climber must wear hard-hats.
- Tie both ends of the rope to belayer and climber. Keep it like this until you
reach the top.
- I don't know from here ... please email Karl on:
cyberkarl@gmx.net.
If you have the procedure for multi-pitching or trad-climbing feel free to
mail me at: cyberkarl@gmx.net



